I was drawn to Yaguarón as the birthplace of Guarani mythology. Here I discovered more about the legends of the seven Guarani monsters and creatures, and the best activities to explore this folklore.
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What drew me to Yaguarón was the Guarani myths of monsters and creatures that surround the town. I’d been told by a family I stayed with in Asuncion about the Pombero and Kurupí, two mythological creatures which target women and people in the night, and was warned to be careful.
So I packed my bag and was on my way to find out more.
I’d planned to stay one night in Yaguarón to learn about the myths, and afterwards make my way along the Route of the Picturesque Towns to Villarrica. But I ended up staying all 6 days of my planned adventure week before my volunteering because of all the activities and the incredibly welcoming community there.
This article will talk about Yaguarón as the birthplace of the Guaraní mythology, activities and attractions in Yaguarón, and tips for planning your visit.
Activities to explore the Guaraní myths and legends
Guaraní folklore is rich with myths and legends, including the story of a curse that was placed on the lineage of an evil spirit who kidnapped a beautiful woman. Their seven sons were born as terrible monsters, each with a different form. You can explore the full story on my article that explores the seven Guaraní monsters and other Paraguayan myths.
The defeat of the seven monsters occurred in a cave in Yaguarón, which is why it is marked as the birthplace of Guarani mythology and folklore.
There are many places to explore in Yaguarón that allow you to learn more about these Guaraní legends and folklore.
Paseo de los Mitos
The Paseo de los Mitos (Myth Passage) leads to the hill that looms over the town. The entrance starts just after the Paseo de las Flores (see below) with two large murals which depict the story of the beautiful Keraná and the evil spirit Tau, and how the 7 monsters came to exist.
After, you turn left and walk up the slope with more artworks on the concrete walls outside people’s houses. There are depictions of each of the monsters and paintings of different elements that make up the culture, including music and dance.
Many of the murals have QR codes that can be used to find out more about each of the creatures (or you can read my blog post on the seven Guaraní monsters here).
The Paseo de los Mitos ends at the base of the hill, with a collection of 7 sculptures for each of the monsters. There is also an impressive Teju Jagua sculpture to the left of the entrance to the cerro.
Cerro Yaguarón
The Cerro is where Teju Jagua had his cave, and where the event that ended the torment of the monsters occurred. This is why Yaguarón is marked as the birthplace of Guarani mythology and lore.
To access the hill costs 10,000 PYG ($1.40 USD) and takes about 15-30 minutes to get to the top, depending on route and speed. There are two options: a direct path to the left of the access booth which requires climbing over boulders, and another to the right which is an easier slope (less climbing required).
At the top there are many activities and opportunities to admire the landscape below:
- Enjoy the lookout over the town
- Search for Saint Tomas’ footprints and manger and climb down to his cave.
- Look through original and recreated Guaraní artefacts in the Tava Jaguaru museum
- Find your way through the Jasy Jatere laberinth
- Explore either of the hikes: Sendero Malavision or Sendero Karai Pyhare
- Relax in a hammock at the cafe under the shade of the native trees, the lapacho (which can be found with white, pink or yellow flowers).
The Shrine of Bruja Micaela Yahari
Another famous legend in Yaguarón is Micaela Yahari, the local witch that is said to have lived for 150 years.
Just 3km north of Yaguarón is the shrine of Micaela Yarahi. She was a woman who lived through the 1800s in the forest to the north of Yaguarón. While most locals visited Micaela to receive herbal medicine for their illnesses, Micaela had been a student of an Indigenous shaman named Ventura Guari, who taught her about darker magic.
She had a mirror through which people could see the fate of their family members who were travelling or at war. This mirror would show them whether their loved one was living, or if some ill fate had befallen them.
It is said that her powers included the ability to remove her head, and it would travel to find answers to peoples’ problems, and that she was also able to see into the future, Her death certificate is dated 1917, however, because there is no evidence of her birth, the rumours of her old age can run free.
People still go to her shrine today to pray, and leave offerings of photos, hair, flowers and clothes.
The area where Micaela Yahari lived and practiced her magic is bordered by two streams. This type of location, at the intersection of two currents, creates a vortex for the forces of magic.
There is a small castle in this area where Micaela also used to receive her clients. It lay abandoned for many years until 2019 when it was turned into accommodation for tourists. It is said that in one room, her presence can still be felt. I’ve included information about this castle below.
Other attractions and activities in Yaguarón
These are some of the other top activities and things to do in Yaguarón that explore other aspects of Paraguayan culture and the beauty of Paraguay.
Camp on Cerro Yaguarón
My favourite night in Yaguarón was the night I camped on the hill, watching the sun go down and the rich colours slowly fade into darkness and listening to the town below start to slow down for the night. I adored knowing the hill was all mine (apart from an overnight guard of the café and museum, which made me feel safe).
I lay outside enjoying the stars, until I was joined by a local astronomer to learn about the stars and constellations. The soft morning light woke me up as the new day rolled in. It was truly wonderful.
I don’t think I was visited by the Pombero, but only time will tell.
I rented the tent off Guillermo (see below) for 50,000 PYG ($7 USD) and also paid the cost of accessing the cerro (10,000 PYG / $1.40 USD).
Star gaze and learn about Greek and Guarani astronomy
Local astronomer Osmar has a wealth of knowledge about Greek astronomy and their constellations, but also about how different Guaraní groups across Paraguay interpreted the stars.
He taught me about some groups call the Milky Way, “Mborevi Rape”, which translates to the path of the Tapir. Other groups see a large Rhea (a largest flightless bird) in the sky, which is the same as the “dark emu” in some Aboriginal Australian cultures. We spent a few hours observing stars and jamming with his brother.
If you’re lucky, you may get to see a small morning star that is supposedly the spirit of Porâsý leaving the cave of Teju Jagua.
You can contact Osmar to organise some astro tourism on: +595 991 987024.
Templo de San Buenaventura
The Templo de San Buenaventura takes up an entire block in the centre of Yaguarón. It was originally built from 1755-1772 by Franciscan friars and the local Guaraní people. It was designed in a baroque fashion, however, the church features Guaraní geometric designs all over its roof.
When you visit, there will likely be a local inside who will explain all the symbolism. Prepare to be asked for a small donation to the church in exchange for his knowledge.
Sunset walk through the Paseo de las Flores and the Paseo de los Ilustres
These two streets are the passages of the flowers and of the illustrious (those who were major contributors towards the town). They are nicest to explore during the sunset hours. The soft light of the late afternoon combined with the flowers and the golden sculptures makes for a beautiful stroll and great photos. On the Paseo de los Ilustres, you’ll also be able to admire the decorated myth train that is parked outside the Municipality building.
Plaza de los Heroes
The town’s main plaza has some interesting artworks and carvings that depict the Guaraní mythology and their creation story. It’s a perfect place to relax in the shade and drink some tereré.
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These are just a small list of some of the activities I did in my 6 days in Yaguarón. I also went on bike rides to other towns, learnt how to make a traditional mbeju, and went swimming in local streams.
If you want to learn deeper about the culture and myths, and do a range of different activities, I cannot recommend Guillermo as a guide/local connection highly enough. Contact him on +595 981 613321.
Planning your trip to Yaguarón
Yaguarón is an essential stop to add to your Paraguay itinerary, along with the other towns of Paraguay’s Picturesque Towns route.
How long to stay in Yaguarón
I would recommend spending between 2-4 days there. You could easily visit for a weekend, however to connect to the community and learn more about the myths and culture, I would recommend a full week.
Getting to Yaguarón from Asuncion
- By car: take the number 1 highway south east. The drive takes about an hour and a half, depending on traffic.
- By bus: from the Terminal de Omnibuses, go downstairs to the bottom floor. Take a bus heading to Paraguarí via Yaguarón (for example, the company Paraguarí or San Buenaventua). It will cost 10,000 PYG ($1.40 USD) and take about 2 hours, depending on the traffic.
Accommodation options in Yaguarón
- Posada Ara, near the centre of town with a kitchen and breakfast included: 80,000 PYG ($11.25 USD). +595 982 310209 (Liz).
- Guillermo’s EcoDomo, at the base of the hill: 100,000 PYG ($14 USD). +595 981 613321.
- Camp on Cerro Yaguarón: toilets and showers, 10,000 PYG ($1.40 USD) entry. You can bring your own tent, rent one from Guillermo or sleep in a hammock.
- Castillo de Saguazú, near Bruja Micaela Yahari: tent 50,000 PYG ($7 USD), room with four beds 390,000 PYG ($55 USD). +595 981 158539.
- See other nearby places to stay here.
I also highly recommend having a meal at Posada Tía Ana. This restaurant has both typical Paraguayan dishes, and menu items like milanesa and empanadas.
Check out my other articles on Indigenous beliefs and cultures:
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