Many people choose to visit San Juan Chamula as they’ve heard about the religious chicken sacrifices that occur in the church. However, its rich culture and deeply spiritual people offer so much more to the travelers who want to dig beneath the surface of this Mexican Tzotzil town. Here I explain why San Juan Chamula is well worth the visit.
*No AI was involved in the writing of this post. This article contains affiliate links which may earn me a small commission at no extra cost to you. This is how I am able to fund my love for writing these stories.
Chamula is an autonomously-run Indigenous town about 45 minutes away from San Cristobal de las Casas, and is a popular day-trip for tourists. They have their own laws and own leaders that run the community, and their own police and jail to deal with any wrong doers. The reason why the town is so special and popular for cultural tourism is because of the community’s determination to stick by their traditions.
The history of Chamula’s Tzotzil-Christian syncretic religion
When the Spanish invaded Latin America their goal was to convert the Mexicas (what many people know as the Aztecs), Mayans and other Indigenous groups to Christianity. Like many Indigenous religions (and Nordic and Greek too), these groups did not follow one god. Instead, there was one god for sun, another for rain, fertility, lightning, harvest, etc. There was also so much respect for the mother, the creator.
Because of the strong pre-hispanic religion, the focus of Christianity was adapted to align to their previous beliefs. Jesus isn’t at the front and center – he’s there, but is one of many saints. This is how the syncretic religion is visible, their relationships to the saints reflects the ancient worship of many gods. There was also a shift to focus more on the Virgin of Guadalupe (the Virgin Mary). This is because the Indigenous groups associated her with the pre-hispanic deity, Tonantzin, the goddess of the earth and corn.
In San Juan Chamula, there are three churches, but because sheep are sacred to the community, the church where the main ceremonies are held is named after the shepherd San Juan Bautista.
Chamula has retained more of their Indigenous Tzotzil beliefs than other towns across Mexico and are really strict in following it. Those that want to convert to Christianity are required to leave the town. Many move to the outskirts of San Cristobal, surrounding towns or out to Nuevo San Juan Chamula in the jungle.
Visiting the infamous Indigenous Town of San Juan Chamula
Hoping to get a deeper introduction to this place, I joined a tour which came highly recommended to me. The guide has been visiting the town since he was 8 and his dad was leading the tours.
The town’s cemetery and laying out the rules
We met in central San Cristobal de las Casas and were driven through the hills to San Juan Chamula. Before we began our tour, the guide took us to a lookout over the town. There he explained the ground rules on how to ensure a respectful visit and gave us the rules.
No taking photos of people’s faces, absolutely none of the children, and none inside the church.
Hence why I barely have any photos for this place.
Our first stop, which served as an introduction to the town, was at a cemetery at the city’s edge. Immediately the signs of different religious and burial practices were evident.
Looking out across the plots, we could see a field of brown and orange. Behind it, the burnt remains of the Temple of San Sebastian. Each burial mound was covered in dried pine needles and bore at least one cross to represent who was buried there. One coloured cross symbolised an Elder’s grave, one for a leader, another a child.
Our guide explained that in this cemetery, it is prohibited to build the pastel-coloured mausoleums which are common place across Central America. Some people had built concrete structures for their loved ones before the ruling came in, but most were buried in the traditional way.
Invited to a shrine in a local’s home
Following that we walked to one of many houses across the town that held shrines for the different saints. The one we visited was tributed to Maria de la Rosa de Lima.
The room filled with smoke from pine sap as the prayers of a woman inside the shrine began. This shrine was created with corn husks and pine needles. We sat around the edge of the room, drinking the pox that was offered to us.
The Tzotzil couple whose job it was to serve the shrine for a year explained how it worked.
They sign up young, as the wait list is about 10 years, and when it’s their turn they share shifts with another couple to maintain the shrine, host prayers and be there for the community. To have this role is one of the highest honours in their community.
As we got up to leave the couple thanked us for coming while offering us more shots of pox. My friend and I chatted to them for a minute and they invited us back the following Monday for a special local celebration. I unfortunately had a volunteer shift, but truly regret not taking the opportunity to return and spend more time with the community.
Amongst the smoke, chanting and pine needles
The final stop was the Templo de San Juan Bautista in the town centre.
This was the most fascinating cultural experience I’ve had here in Mexico. Possibly even Central America.
When we walked in I was immediately taken back in time. The church was dark, only lit from the small windows and the candles burning on the floor. There were no pews, and paintings of the saints lined the walls.
Family groups gathered in front of whichever saint they needed to pray to, and sang while swaying. The aroma was thick from the candles and pine needles and the music from the different groups across the church all came together to create a beautiful hum.
It was so beautiful and for the first time in a church I was able to see spirituality. I kept thinking that this was probably what a church might’ve looked like in the medieval times. It was such an incredible and overwhelming feeling.
Outside, young men set off fireworks as a notice that a celebration was going on, holding the heavy iron base in their hands. As locals left the church I was able to get a glance of the typical Chamula clothing; the male Elders in their white sheep coats and the women wearing the black wool skirts. The more wool on the clothes represents their status and/or wealth in the town.
The religious purpose of the chicken sacrifices
To be honest, because of my awe, I completely forgot about the chicken sacrifices that usually bring people here. I ask our guide, and he speaks of ceremonies where bad spirits and evil are transferred our of a human and into the soul of the chicken. The chicken is then sacrificed by breaking its neck.
If a sacrifice occurred while I was there, I would’ve completely missed it. I cannot put into words the captivating essence of spirituality and ancient culture that surrounded me. Moments like these are why I always search for opportunities to connect and learn from Indigenous people around the globe. I sat down on the steps outside and stayed in thought for a long time, watching the bustle of the square outside.
After the church we ate, went for a wander around the town and then drove to the neighbouring Indigenous town of Zinacantan which is known for its large production of flowers and the textiles. However my mind remained in awe of my experience in San Juan Chamula.
Why doing a tour allows you to see beyond the chicken sacrifices
While going to Chamula by colectivo by yourself is entirely possible, it can be difficult to understand what is going on without the in-depth explanations of the culture.
Our guide was able to speak Tzotzil and knew the locals well. This also made the experience more significant to me as I then found it easier to connect with the individuals the tour guide introduced us to, and made me feel comfortable that I was being respectful.
Our tour was through Alex and Raúl for $350 MXN. They have been doing these tours for over a decade and are respected by and respectful of the community.
Contact them on +52 967 118 9567.
Visiting San Juan Chamula is 100% worth it for the insight to a rich and spiritual culture.
If you haven’t already booked your accommodation check out the map below, or search here if hostels are more your vibe/price range.
Below are some other tours, like visiting Sumidero Canyon for your time in San Cristobal de las Casas.