Villarrica’s complicated and confusing history means that its residents do things a little differently. Find out about the city in reverse and what to see and do during your visit.
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It’s backwards, topsy turvy, upside down and inside out – this is how locals describe Villarrica and its inhabitants.
Villarrica is the capital of the Guairá Department, about three hours east of Asuncion. It is located in between Yaguarón, the Route of the Picturesque Towns and Cerro Trés Kandu.
While it is known for some interesting tourist attractions such as a beautiful church made from red stone and a central park with resident capybaras, the city’s topsy turvy nature is definitely the city’s highlight.
Why do locals call Villarrica the upside down city?
In Spanish, Villarrica is referred to as, “La Ciudad Al Revés”. This phrase is difficult to translate directly into English. Al revés means: in reverse, backwards, upside down, inside out, topsy turvy, the other way round, back to front, etc.
When I asked my local friend which translation was most accurate, she said, “All of them.”
Villarrica’s history of retreating and surviving instead of conquering
This nickname comes from Villarrica’s complicated history of settlement, and an associated legend.
The city of Villarrica was originally founded by the Spanish colonists in the far eastern region of Paraguay in 1570. Over the course of the century, the residents experienced floods, disease outbreaks, and invasions and attacks from the bandeirantes (Portuguese colonisers) and Guaranís. Due to these circumstances, the residents relocated the city seven times.
When they were finally able to settle, Villarrica’s reputation as “La Ciudad Andriega” (The Wandering City) had already been established. Their history of retreating and surviving conflicted with the typical “conquer and settle” approach of the Spanish colonists.
There’s a legend that says: each time the inhabitants escaped, they walked backwards so their pursuers would be confused as to the direction the footsteps were heading.
Here began the perception that the people of Villarrica (Guaireños) do things in reverse.
Villarrica’s untypical city layout
But the back to front attitude doesn’t stop there. The history of how Villarrica was formed has affected the way their final city has been structured.
When the Spanish colonised Latin America, they instated the Law of the Indies to standardise city planning across the colonies. The Law of the Indies required for Spanish settlements to be structured as a rectangular grid, with a square Central Plaza which acted as the civic centre. This would be surrounded by the church, city hall and other important buildings like government houses and the palace, and would be a central space for commerce and community events.
Source: Google Earth
Source: Google Earth
However, Villarrica does not adhere to the Spanish city planning legislation. There are two central plazas: Plaza de los Heroes which faces the Municipality building, and Plaza Libertad which is flanked by the Cathedral of Villarrica and the Government House.
The hilly terrain meant that streets were not built on a clean grid, and the cultural and commercial life developed across the city. Some neighbourhoods have the same cultural and economic importance as the centre (e.g. Yvaroty, where you’ll find the Nuestra Señora de la Asuncion Church).
Villarrica’s layout adds to the reasons this city feels a bit backwards.
Other evidence of how Villarrica has done things in reverse
Villarrica’s attitude of doing things a little weird can be found across the city.
Locals love hanging the flag upside down and there’s many memes about the Guaireño people. For example, check out this Villarrican kids sports team who’ve flipped their jerseys around for the team victory photo.
Another example are the lion statues in front of the Municipality building. Typically when you see lion statues positioned out the front of an important building, they are usually placed in front, looking out at the road and passerbys as if on guard… but here in Villarrica, they’ve done it a little differently.
The lion statues have been positioned on the opposite side of the road, looking out at the park. Walking on the footpath feels like you’re sneaking behind the guards.
More reasons why Villarrica is considered a bit weird:
- Doors often open outward instead of inwards.
- Inside one of the local churches they’ve installed fans on the walls (yes, the ones with blades that are meant to be on the ceiling).
- Each year they do the parade for Independence Day in the opposite direction to what other towns would do.
And of course there’s a restaurant that has decided to take this to the next level. They’ve created a burger with the meat patties on the outside.
What to see and do in Villarrica, Paraguay
Because Villarrica is a central hub between Asuncion, Encarnacion and Ciudad del Este, you should definitely add the city to your Paraguay travel plans.
Where you can find Villarrica’s Topsy Turvy Nature
Wander around the city to observe how the city’s design feels different to other colonial cities across Latin America. Stop by the Plaza de los Heroes to see the lion statues, and walk a few blocks to the Plaza Libertad.
The most on-brand attraction of Villarrica is definitely Patio Gua’i, where you can order the inside out burger: the meat patties replace the bun, and the bun becomes the meat.
More… normal things to do in Villarrica
One of Villarrica’s main attractions is the Iglesia Nuestra Señora de la Asuncion. The red stone facade of the church was constructed with incredible craftsmanship. While it is not often open for tourists to explore inside, the exterior is worth the visit.
Make sure you pop into Museum Fermin Lopez. This old building exhibits the history of Guairá and Villarrica through the eyes of its locals. You’ll find historical objects relating to the wars, vintage photographs, furniture and coins.
There is also a room dedicated to Manuel Ortiz Guerrero, a famous Guaireño poet. Here you’ll find his letters, books, manuscripts and personal belongings.
Don’t miss the Manuel Ortíz Guerrero Park. In the gardens you’ll find carvings and sculptures relating to the famous poet, and you’ll even find his grave. There is a fountain of love – legend has it that if lovers drink from it they will remain together. In the centre of the park is Ykua Pyta, a lake that translates to Red Spring, where you’ll find some resident capybaras.
If you’re looking for some more nature, head down to the Estacion neighbourhood to visit Lago Frieddman and the old Villarrica Train Station. The lake is also a great spot for bird watching in the morning.
Planning your trip to Villarrica
How to get to Villarrica
Villarrica is one of the easiest cities to get to outside of the major three cities.
- From Asuncion to Villarrica: Many buses throughout the day, try the companies San Juan Nepomuceno, Guaireña and Ybytyruzú.
- From Ciudad del Este to Villarrica: The companies Guaireña, La Yuteña and Ybytyruzú have daily departures.
- From Encarnacion to Villarrica: A few daily direct buses available. Companies like La Yuteña and Guaireña stop in Villarrica. Others heading to Asuncion might pass through but you’ll have to check at the bus station.
- From the Route of the Picturesque Towns to Villarrica: If you’ve been checking out some of the places on the Picturesque Towns route (e.g. Yaguaron or Paraguarí), you can organise a bus from the Paraguarí bus terminal or by texting the Ybytyruzú or Guaireña companies on +595 982 717202.
- From elsewhere around Paraguay’s east to Villarrica: If there isn’t a bus directly to Villarrica from your destinations, there will likely be one passing through Coronel Oviedo. From Coronel Oviedo you can buy a ticket to Villarrica for 15,000 PYG ($2 USD).
Where to stay in Villarrica
I visited Villarrica twice and stayed in different locations.
The first time I stayed in the city centre at Hotel San Jose, and would recommend this place more than the other. I paid 80,000 PYG ($11.35 USD) and got a private room with a double bed and a bathroom, A/C hot water, wifi and TV.
The second time, my friend and I had about 5 minutes before it started pouring rain so we raced to the building next to the bus terminal that had a sign advertising accommodation. We paid 50,000 PYG ($7 USD) each, but if you’re alone the cost is a bit more. We got what we paid for, but all we were looking for was shelter so it was fine.
How long to stay in Villarrica
While this town is incredibly interesting, I wouldn’t recommend it as a place to spend too much time.
One night here would be perfect, enough to walk around and see the attractions, visit the museum and then try an inside out burger.
Where should I visit after Villarrica?
Villarrica is on many bus routes between Asuncion, Encarnacion and Ciudad del Este so you could head to any of these cities.
However, surrounding Villarrica are a couple of off the beaten track destinations that don’t get a lot of attention.
If you’re heading toward Asuncion, travel into the Province of Paraguarí. My top destinations on this route are:
- Yaguarón to learn about the mythology and folklore of the Guaraní people. Linked are both my guide and my blog post about the folklore.
- The city of Paraguarí for some hikes.
- Sapucaí for the old train workshop and a hike to a waterfall.
You could also use Villarrica as a base to visit nearby hikes in the Ybytyruzú Mountain Range, such as Cerro Trés Kandu, Paraguay’s highest peak. This was one of my favourite experiences in Paraguay.
Whichever you choose, I hope you enjoy your travels to Villarrica, the City in Reverse (or Town Upside Down).