The Sacred City of Quilmes, sometimes referred to as Argentina’s Machu Picchu, is a lesser known pre-Colombian and pre-Incan site which holds rich stories of culture, painful history and ongoing politics. Situated just south of Cafayate, Salta on Ruta 40, the Diaguitas-Calchaquí, lived here in the Andes well before the Incas. Today they face challenges with land ownership against government and private interests.
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The Story of Quilmes: A city built to protect its inhabitants from the Incas and the Spanish
Quilmes is the largest pre-Colombian site in Argentina. The city is located in the state of Tucuman, two hours south of the popular tourist destination of Cafayate, Salta. The city was built on a hill in the Cerro Cajones, and was chosen by their ancestors when they first came to the valley because of the hill’s perfect triangular shape. It’s shape and location provided perfect protection of their lands as they had a view of the whole valley.
The city was created with stone houses and crafted in a way that trapped water running down from the mountains for irrigation. Its position meant that invaders could be spotted by the dust they stirred or by the glint of their armour.
Like any other group of Indigenous people, the Calchaquí people have suffered greatly at the hands of colonisers. They fought many wars against the Incas, and then again against the Spanish once they came to conquer the lands. One war against the Spanish lasted seventy years, despite the Calchaquí people fighting against a powerful invasion of guns and horses.
In 1665, after 130 years of resistance, the city of Quilmes was destroyed and the Spanish forced the people to abandon their lands and walk more than 1500km to the Rio de la Plata on foot. The 2500 Calchaquí were forced to leave, however because of the lack of water, the strain and the awful conditions, less than 800 people arrived. Those who survived were forced to settle near Buenos Aires, however they continued to fight when they could. The city Quilmes in Buenos Aires is named in their memory.
Eventually, 50 years later in 1716, the Spanish crown gave the community their land back to prevent uprising and more wars. This is a situation almost unheard of for Indigenous communities across the globe.
Calchaqui Culture today and the ongoing land ownership issues
Everything between the two mountain ranges is run by the community – a Chief (Cacique) and a Council of Elders. There are a number of towns that lie in the valley where the descendants of Quilmes live today. These include Amaicha del Valle (a larger town where I volunteered for two weeks at an Indigenous man’s bed and breakfast and farm) and Tiu Punco (a sacred space where the Elders live).
The community still has a lot of complicated dealings with the government, especially when it comes to resources and the interests of large mining companies.
The Calchaquí Valley is a desert. Its riverbed lies bare for most months of the year, only filling during the rains of December to March. During the dry months water is extracted from underground to drink, wash, and sustain their houses and ranches.
However, the mining company has been extracting water for their operations at an amount far greater than the water table can provide, meaning that most areas in the valley that used to be used for agriculture are now barren, and the community is suffering a shortage of water.
The community also struggles with outsiders coming in to profit off their culture.
In the town of Amaicha del Valle sits Museo Pachamama, which is run by outsiders to sell the Calchaquí culture to tourists. The profits made remain in the pockets of the owners and are not reinvested back into the community.
The land of Quilmes itself was passed to a private landholder who built a hotel and pool. The community has to fight hard to have their ownership returned as the commercialisation of the sacred city was viewed as highly disrespectful. After a long legal battle, in 2008 they took ownership again. The hotel and pool are left unused and guides from the community are there to offer their insight about the history, the culture and the ongoing challenges they continue to face.
How to plan your visit to the Sacred City of Quilmes
Getting there: The Sacred City of Quilmes is just off Ruta 40 and can be reached most easily by car, however buses can get you to the ruins turnoff.
- 🚘 Arriving by car is the easiest option. This website offers great deals. If you are coming south from Cafayate or north from Santa Maria, drive along Ruta 40 until you see the turn off. If you’re driving from San Miguel de Tucumán, Tafi del Valle or Amaicha del Valle, drive west on Ruta 307 and then turn right on Ruta 40 for 3km.
- 🚌 Buses can take you to the ruins anywhere from San Miguel de Tucumán and Cafayate. You can find a bus using BusBud, and use Santa Maria, Catamarca as your destination (just tell the driver you want to get off at Quilmes). From here you may need to hitchhike or organise a taxi as the walk takes about an hour.
- 🎫 You can also organise a tour with a local guide that includes transport like with Sebastian from Casa Amancay (see below), or this one that includes the neighbouring valley of Tafí del Valle.
Entrance cost: $10,000*
When you first walk in you enter the cinema to watch a 12 minute video that shows a beautifully shot film of Quilmes’ history with English and Portuguese subtitles. There’s an interactive museum inside showing elements of the city’s life, including religion, irrigation and astronomy.
Outside, local guides offer to take you up through the Sacred City of Quilmes with deeper exploration of these topics. You can choose to hire one or walk around yourself. I highly, highly recommend a guide as there is such rich culture and stories you can’t see with your eyes.
My recommendations
My biggest advice is to look at the ground around you as you walk around. You can still find pieces of pottery from pre-colombian times across the city (of course, be respectful and leave them where you find them).
A local guide I recommend is Sebastian Pastrana. He has a bed and breakfast in Amaicha del Valle and conducts tours for $22,000* p.p. including entrance and transport (with a discount for those staying at Casa Amancay).
I’ve been fortunate to visit the Sacred City twice now, and each time I have learnt substantially more about the culture and history that this place holds.
This here is only a short insight into the deep history, culture and ongoing politics that you can learn about while visiting.
If you’re wanting to combine a day trip from San Miguel de Tucuman and see Tafí del Valle as well I would recommend this tour as it looks like they work with the local guides at the Sacred City of Quilmes (as Sebastian is featured in the photo below!)
*As the inflation in Argentina changes often, it is likely these prices are not up to date. Please check with the locations/tour guides for up to date pricing.
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