Cerro Trés Kandu holds the title of Paraguay’s highest peak, and at only 842m, it is a great hiking adventure to add to your travels in Paraguay. This guide provides trail information, transport options, costs and tips.
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While in Ciudad del Este, I became friends with another backpacker who was keen to join me on my side quest to hike and camp overnight on Paraguay’s highest mountain, Cerro Trés Kandu.
Cerro Trés Kandu is located near Villarrica in the Guiara Province, in the Ybytyruzú mountain range. The shape of the mountains could be seen while we were still hours away, its bluish hues standing out above the level countryside.
While we could’ve taken local buses to the trailhead, we decided to take advantage of being in a pair and hitchhiked. Our luck was unbelievable, with two cars pulling over within the first minute we put our thumbs up, and the car we got into heading to our destination.
With our transport sorted, we looked out the windows at the passing fields, the occasional cuckoos and woodpeckers sitting on fences and wires, and watched as the mountain range got closer and closer. We were dropped in the closest town to Cerro Trés Kandu and organised a lift to the trailhead with a local we met.
At the base we met staff member Enrique, who provided us with our tents, sleeping bags and gloves for the climb up Paraguay’s highest… mountain. We could see all 842m above us and would be at the top in about 2 hours.
Our hike began at 5:30pm, and we were grateful for the cooler afternoon air and the shade provided by the foliage. What began as an easy stroll, gradually turned into an obstacle course. We walked across streams, used ropes to balance ourselves as we teetered up ladders, and ducked under low hanging branches, all while carrying our backpacks and tents.
Along the way, the biodiversity of the Ybytyruzú mountain range came out to meet us. Bugs, beetles, butterflies, birds and spiders. I spent some time calling back and forth with a Surucua Trogon. It didn’t come close enough to see it, however I was proud that I had learnt its call to be able to have an interspecies “conversation” with it.
The most special moment was when a group of butterflies flew close, and one was brave enough to come land on us. It spent a minute chilling on my friend’s shoulder, then on my finger and finally came to land on the butterfly tattoo on my arm. You can see from my reaction that this was a dream come true.
We reached the summit just after sunset, and ate a dinner of chipa guazú, chickpeas and cucumbers while watching the sky’s oranges and purples fade into black. Fireflies came out to join us and we heard the haunting call of the Urutaú at the edge of the clearing. As the temperature dropped we crawled into our tent for a well deserved sleep.
I woke at 5:23am to a gasp/squeal coming from my friend and a gust of cold air. She had opened the tent to an incredible sunrise. We switched the way we were lying and watched as the new day came in from Paraguay’s highest point.
What you need to know about hiking Cerro Trés Kandu
Cerro Trés Kandu Trail information
At only 842m altitude, Paraguay’s highest peak takes about 2-3 hours to summit.
The trail is well maintained and clearly marked. The hike is not incredibly strenuous, however it is classified as high difficulty as it is steep.
There are showers and toilets at the base of the Cerro. They have wifi available, a storage space for anything you don’t want to take on your hike, and a fridge with cold drinks to purchase.
The hike is broken up into 14 stations.
- Stations 1 to 7 the path can be walked with ease. The slope begins slowly and only starts increasing around Station 5.
- Between Stations 7 to 11 is the steepest part of the climb. There are many ladders and ropes to support you on this section.
- In between Stations 11 and 12 is another path off to the right which takes you to Cerro Piro’y. The detour to this lookout and back adds another hour to your hike. (We decided to turn back after 15 minutes because the ground was still slippery from recent rain.)
- Once you reach Station 12, the walk becomes easy again, weaving beneath the canopy until you arrive at the lookout (Station 14).
When you get to Station 13, celebrate! This is Paraguay’s highest point!
On top of Cerro Trés Kandu (at the final station) you’ll find an open grassy area with plenty of flat spaces to set up your picnic or campsite. At the edge of the hill is a wooden platform with panoramic views of the countryside.
There is also a large abandoned building which was the former radio communications site. It was really creepy to camp next to when we arrived in the darkness (and on Halloween). However, there was a toilet inside (unsure whether it works), and it would have been really helpful to take shelter in if there had been rain.
Keep your eyes out for a path that leads you to another lookout. From here you can see the path you took to reach Paraguay’s highest mountain, and can admire your hard work.
Costs for hiking and camping on Cerro Trés Kandu
Hiking entry cost: 40,000 PYG ($5.65 USD)
Hiking + camping entry cost: 50,000 PYG ($7 USD)
Renting a tent + sleeping bag: 55,000 PYG ($7.75 USD)
Tips for your hike up Paraguay’s highest peak
- Message them in advance, especially if you’re planning to camp and rent their equipment.
- Check the weather for the Villarrica region before you plan your hike. The earth would easily change to mud, so it’s best to leave at least one sunny day between the last downpour and your hike.
- The majority of the path is covered by shade, but there’s not much cover once you reach the lookout. Make sure to bring a hat, sunscreen and also repellent as there are mosquitos.
- Take a garbage bag! There are no bins above, so it’s important to leave with all the rubbish you arrived with. If you have room in the bag, try to pick up at least 5 other pieces that others might have left.
- Leave at least 2 hours before sunset. It’s best to have finished the steep sections before the light disappears.
- The staff provide you with gloves, which I recommend taking. They are helpful to avoid rope burn, especially on the way down.
- Wear bright colours (e.g. the gloves) as they attract butterflies!
Getting to Cerro Trés Kandu with Public Transport
Cerro Trés Kandu is located in the Guiara Province, about one hour from Villarrica. The trailhead begins 9km outside of a town called General Eugenio Alejandrino Garay.
Cerro Trés Kandu is located on private land and is most easily accessed by private vehicle. However, my friend and I used a combination of public transport, hitchhiking and paying locals to get us to the trailhead.
Step 1: Travel to Villarrica
Villarrica is the capital of the Guairá Province and the closest major bus terminal to Cerro Trés Kandu.
There are multiple buses per day that arrive directly in Villarrica from Asuncion, Encarnacion and Ciudad del Este, usually costing around 60,000 PYG ($8.50 USD). If there’s no bus from where you are coming from, find a bus to Coronel Oviedo, and from there you can take a 15,000 PYG ($2 USD) bus to Villarrica.
Step 2: Travel to General Eugenio Alejandrino Garay
The road to the trailhead is in General Eugenio Alejandrino Garay so this is your next destination. My friend and I took a Bolt to the edge of Villarrica (Highway PY08) and hitchhiked from there. We waited less than a minute and lucked out that our driver was heading along Highway PY18 and would pass through Garay.
Otherwise, you can take a bus heading towards San Juan Nepomuceno, and get off at Garay. There are multiple a day with Agencia Guaireña, and these cost 35,000 PYG ($5 USD). The latest bus I would recommend taking is at 4pm, as you’ll need enough time to get to the trailhead and the summit before sunset.
Please note: There are no buses on Sundays.
Step 3: Organise a lift to the Cerro Trés Kandu trailhead
Now that you’re in General Eugenio Alejandrino Garay, you’re only 9km from the trail head. This is about a 2 hour walk (in the sun) so it’s recommended to organise a lift from here.
You could try your luck hitchhiking from the start of the Camino al 3 Kandú to the base.
We chose not to risk it as it was a weekday and there weren’t other hikers booked into the climb.
From here, my friend and I popped into a local tienda on the main road and asked the shop owner if he knew anyone who we could pay to take us. He directed us to the Gomeria y Lavadero Barua on a road that runs parallel to the main street. The owner happily took us there, and we paid 50,000 PYG ($7 USD) each.
We made sure to grab his number in case we needed a lift back the following day.
You may be able to find something cheaper if you shop around for lifts or plan ahead. I would recommend contacting the staff (Fabio’s Whatsapp linked here) at Cerro Trés Kandu to see if there are other options for your arrival day.
The biodiversity you’ll find while hiking Paraguay’s highest mountain
As I mentioned above, we were surrounded by unique biodiversity throughout the hike. The greenery and vegetation of the region is home to many creatures.
We saw many forms of spider webs and their owners, and watched centipedes, millipedes and caterpillars crawl across the ground. There were multiple species of butterflies, including the large Blue Morpho and the orange, pink, purple and blue Epiphile Orea (this is the species that landed on me).
We saw an electric blue beetle with metallic pink wings, an orange and black beetle with a pyramid shaped body, and a strange black and yellow bug with pink, blue and purple wings (which might be part of the Clearwing Moth family).
During the night we were visited by fireflies, mosquitos (although not many) and a rabbit of some sort. The haunting call of the Urutaú (Common Potoo) was the perfect Halloween night sound to fall asleep to, as its call is like a witch laughing in slow motion.
In the morning I woke to the call of a Red-crested Finch, and watched Southern House Wrens and a Spix’s Spinetail flitter around in the buses near our tent. Above us soared a Roadside Hawk, a group of Black Vultures and what I think was a Swallow-tailed Kite. And then of course, I was whistling a duet with the wonderful Surucua Trogon.
Is hiking Cerro Trés Kandu worth it?
Absolutely. Why?
Why you should hike Cerro Trés Kandu:
- Cerro Trés Kandu is Paraguay’s highest peak
- It is accessible for backpackers on public transport
- At only 842m, Cerro Trés Kandu is not too strenuous nor difficult and can be hiked in a day
- The panoramic views from Paraguay’s highest mountain are perfect for viewing sunset and sunrise
- The Ybytyruzú mountain range’s biodiversity and nature: all the butterflies, beetles, song birds, birds of prey, spiders, caterpillars, trees, ferns, vines, plants, flowers, bamboo, bunnies, dirt and mud
If you’re looking for a Paraguayan adventure with panoramic views that will get you to the country’s highest peak and amongst nature, Cerro Trés Kandu is an essential addition to your Paraguay travel plans.
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