Backpacking Paraguay: An Itinerary for 1-2 Weeks

Thinking of backpacking Paraguay but don’t know where to go? Steal this Asunción to Ciudad del Este, Paraguay itinerary that takes you through cities, on hikes and to see Paraguayan culture.

When I left Paraguay after 2 months there and started travelling in Bolivia, all the people I met asked, “What did you even do in Paraguay?”

Paraguay, despite being called El Corazón de América (the Heart of America), is almost untouched in terms of backpacking tourism. The only cities with options on HostelWorld are Asunción (the capital) and Ciudad del Este, and the tours published on Civitatis and Viator are marketed to an audience with a bigger budget.

The average backpacker would think that Paraguay was just not set up for travel, and would race through or skip it entirely.

However, Paraguayans love to travel their country and local newspapers are filled with domestic tourism information.

I spent two months in Paraguay, and in that time travelled across the country, volunteered, got to know and stayed with locals, and fell in love with what the country has to offer.

If you are a traveller that loves off the beaten track travel, feeling like an explorer, connecting to locals and unique gastronomy, Paraguay is the perfect place to explore.

The 1-2 week backpacking itinerary through Paraguay

Let me introduce you to my 1-2 week itinerary through Paraguay, from Asunción in the west, to Ciudad del Este in the east. This itinerary can also be done in reverse – from Ciudad del Este to Asunción – or by switching destinations 6 and 7 so your route becomes from Asunción to Encarnación or vice versa.

The ideal time to spend in Paraguay depends on your style of travel, so this itinerary can be adaptable to your needs.

If you’re here to check it off a list and see a little bit of what the country has to offer on the way, 1-2 weeks is best. If you’re a slow traveller and really want to know the culture and the people, you can spend so much time here. I spent 2 months in Paraguay and still didn’t see everything I wanted to.

Everything in this itinerary is possible as a solo backpacker and on public transport. 

Here I guide you through:

• Asunción, Paraguay’s capital, filled with museums, galleries and an introduction to Paraguayan culture
• A town where you can learn all about the Guaraní mythology and the folkloric monsters
• A route of picturesque towns along an overgrown railway line with hikes, waterfalls and an old train workshop
• Villarrica, a town that embraces the stereotype that it is a bit backwards
• Encarnación, where you can visit the old Jesuit missions 
• The Itaipú Dam, bustling marketplace and nearby waterfalls of Ciudad del Este

I thoroughly enjoyed my time in Paraguay, and hope this itinerary acts as an introduction to a country often skipped by backpackers.

Stop 1. Asunción

Asuncion was one of the first established cities in Latin America which had earned it the name of “Mother of Cities”. Home to over 2 million people, Asunción and its surrounding cities are a great place to begin your introduction to Paraguay. 

However, this Paraguayan capital is an interesting city, as in comparison with other South American capital cities, you’ll likely notice that the city centre is very quiet and empty. There are many historical buildings and museums in the downtown region, however the local activity mostly happens in the suburbs outside of the centre.

There are also many surrounding towns (called the Golden Circuit) which are great to explore. They showcase important elements of Paraguayan culture, including its artisans, religion and nature. I will do a write up of the Golden Circuit soon.

What to do in Asunción

Asunción has something for everyone, whether you’re a history buff, interested in Indigenous culture, love art and music, or enjoy spending your time outdoors. 

Asunción for those who like history:

• Do a City Tour to learn about the most significant Paraguayans and buildings. You’ll visit buildings such as the López Palace, Casa de la Independencia, Plaza de los Desaparecidos and the Metropolitan Cathedral.
• Visit the Museo de la Memoria to learn about Stroessner’s dictatorship and what happened to those who were disappeared during his regime.
• One of Asunción’s oldest neighbourhoods (colloquially known as La Chacarita) is often avoided due to its poor reputation. However, @ChacaTours runs locally led tours with community members to learn about its history and how it is the birthplace of UNESCO recognised Guarania music.

What to do in Asunción to learn about the Indigenous Guaraní culture: 

• The Museo de Barro has exhibitions of Indigenous art and costumes alongside contemporary art.
• Stop into the Andres Babero Ethnology Museum and the Paraguayan Indigenous Association (AIP) around the corner.
• Although just outside of Asunción, the Mythological Museum of Ramón Elías is a great spot to learn about Guaraní mythology. However, if you are going to Yaguarón next (as this itinerary includes), I would skip this spot.

Asunción for the culture, arts and music lovers:

• Museo de Barro is an essential stop for art lovers with its mix of Indigenous and contemporary exhibitions (as mentioned above).
• Have a coffee and try local dishes at El Café de Acá. There are many of these cafés across the city, but my favourite is in Las Carmelitas. 
• Visit the nearby town of Itauguá to learn about the popular Ñandutí weaving form at the Itauguá Centro Cultural y Artesanal.
• Visit the old Cine Cañisá, a historic cinema which often hosts cinema with discussions afterwards, or cultural workshops. Check them out on insta @cinecanisa.
• Check out the bizarre Museo de Sillas (Museum of Chairs).
• Do a Guarania Tour in La Chacarita with @ChacaTours to learn more about the UNESCO recognised music and admire the colourful street art.

The cultural offerings in Asunción change every week so for up to date events and news, I would recommend following the @ToboganMedia girls on instagram.

Finally, here is where to go in Asunción to enjoy nature and exercise:

• Walk along the city’s Costañera. At sunset or at night time, just be wary of the roads you take to get there. Passing close by the Palace is the safest spot.
• The Botanic Gardens are a must visit, especially for bird lovers.
• The Parque de la Salud has a track for runners and walkers, places to sit and read and a library. Make sure to take an ID for entry. 
• Watch sunset from the lookout on Cerro Lambaré.

And for those sports fans, especially the football fanatics, the Museo CONMEBOL is a must visit to learn about all things South American football.

Where to stay in Asunción

Your typical accommodation booking platforms will have numerous options available for Asunción. 

• In terms of finding a good hostel, I thoroughly enjoyed my time at Nomadas Hostel as it had a social vibe and a lovely back garden.
• If you have flexibility to stay in a nicer region of Asunción, I would recommend Las Carmelitas or Villa Morra. These neighbourhoods are beautiful, clean and the busier regions of the capital.

How long to stay in Asunción

Asunción is filled with activities, meaning you could stay anywhere from 3 days to 1 week here depending on your plans.

How to get to Asunción by bus

Flying is the quickest and most convenient way to arrive in Asuncion, however the bus rides allow you to see so much of the countryside (especially the Chaco).

Northwest Argentina (Salta) to Asunción: You can catch a direct bus from Salta to Asuncion with Via TAC (this is not every day so check the link for their schedule).

Bolivia (Santa Cruz de la Sierra) to Asunción: There are daily buses that run between Santa Cruz de la Sierra and Asunción with Grupo Stel. These are long but comfortable buses that cross the Chaco overnight to get you to Asunción. There’s wifi on board and they provide lunch and a breakfast snack.

• This Bolivian bus also passes through Villamontes if you’re coming from Tarija, but you’ll need to speak with the company to find out where they stop and book directly through them.

Stop 2. Yaguarón

Known as the birthplace of Guaraní mythology, Yaguarón is a great place to stay for a few days and get to know local Paraguayan myths including the seven Guaraní monsters. You can explore the colourful streets and the museums, camp on Cerro Yaguarón, and learn about Guaraní astronomy. I adored the charm and community of Yaguarón and found it so easy to make friends with the creative locals.

Read my Yaguarón article for more information about the town, its attractions, activities and accommodation options.

What to do in Yaguarón

Top activities to do in Yaguarón include:

• Learn about Guaraní mythology and the town’s folklore:
  • The Paseo de los Mitos (Myths Walk)
  • Museo Tava Jaguaru on Cerro Yagúaron.
  • The shrine of Bruja Micaela Yahari.
• Explore and/or camp on Cerro Yaguarón.
• Visit the Templo de San Buenaventura, a church with Baroque and Guaraní influences.
• Learn about Greek and Guaraní astronomy with a local astrotourism guide.
• Visit the Museum of Dr. Francia, an important leader in Paraguay’s history.

Where to stay in Yaguarón

I stayed in three different locations during my time in Yaguarón.

• Posada Ara, near the centre of town with a kitchen and breakfast included: 80,000 PYG ($11.25 USD). +595 982 310209 (Liz).
• Guillermo’s EcoDomo, at the base of the hill: 100,000 PYG ($14 USD). +595 981 613321.
• Camp on Cerro Yaguarón, where there are toilets and showers, and a security guard is up there each night: 10,000 PYG ($1.40 USD) entry. You can bring your own tent, rent one from Guillermo or sleep in a hammock.

In my detailed Yaguarón post I provide more accommodation options for Yaguarón.

How long to stay in Yaguarón

I would recommend spending between 2-5 days in Yaguarón. You could easily visit for a weekend, however to connect to the community and learn more about the myths and culture, and appreciate all the surrounding nature, I would recommend a week.

How to get to Yaguarón

Getting to Yaguarón from Asuncion is simple and inexpensive. Take a bus from the bottom floor section of Asuncion’s bus terminal. Companies such as Paraguarí and San Buenaventura pass through Yaguarón. 

Stop 3. The Route of the Picturesque Towns

In 2022, the Paraguayan Government established a route made up of six towns within the Department of Paraguarí called the Ruta del Pueblos Pintorescos (the Route of the Picturesque Towns).

The six towns that make up Paraguay’s Pueblos Pintorescos are Yaguarón, Pirayú, Paraguarí, Escobar, Sapucai and General Bernardino Caballero. Each of these towns contributes to the culture, history, legends and customs that makes this state so interesting.

These towns make a perfect roadtrip that incorporates Paraguayan history, culture and nature. It is also the perfect way to break up a roadtrip from Asuncion to Villarrica.

What to do on the Route of the Picturesque Towns

It is impossible to capture everything that can be found along the Route of the Picturesque towns in this one post. If you want more information on all the available attractions and activities check out this article.

The highlights include:

• The hikes of Paraguarí: Cerro Perõ, Cerro Hu and Cerro Santo Tomas.
• The General Enrique Duarte Alder Artillery Historical Museum provides insight into the Triple Alliance War and the Chaco War and exhibits original cannons and arms.
• The Mbatoví Eco Reserve, where you can walk on suspension bridges, do zip lining and rappel.
• The Sapucai Railway Historical Museum, which demonstrates how the trains were made using the heavy machinery on display.
• From Sapucai, hike Cerro Rokẽ and Salto Inglés. It’s a 1.5km hike to the waterfall.
• The Casa del Arbol in General Bernandino Caballero is a house that has been overtaken by nature. Impressive tree roots grow up and through the abandoned house’s walls.

What are the best towns to visit between Asunción and Villarrica

Each of the destinations on the Route of the Picturesque Towns has its own charm, however if you only have time for a few I would recommend the following towns:

• Yaguarón to learn about the Guaraní myths and folklore (this is why it deserves its own stop in the itinerary.
• Paraguarí for the surrounding hikes and nature.
• Sapucai for the old train workshop and for the hike to Salto Ingles

Where to stay between Yaguarón and Villarrica

There are many options for accommodation in each of the towns, but I would recommend finding a posada in one town and using it as your base to explore.

If you had to choose one of the towns, I would pick Paraguarí. Jasy Hospedaje is a good affordable option, otherwise check Airbnb or use this directory and message the local Posadas/Hostels for rates and availability.

In Paraguarí you can also camp on Cerro Hú, which is free if you enter the trail through the ecological park.

How long to spend on the Route of the Picturesque Towns

This depends. If you want the whole adventure and to see everything, I would recommend a week.

If you just want a little insight into rural Paraguayan life between Asunción and Villarrica, I would recommend choosing two towns and exploring there for 1-2 days each.

How to travel between Yaguarón and the other Picturesque Towns

Catching the buses between these towns is really simple as there are frequent buses daily.

For more information on bus companies and timetables, check out my article on the route.

Stop 4. Villarrica

Villarrica is the capital of the Guairá Department, about three hours east of Asuncion. While it is known for some interesting tourist attractions such as a beautiful church made from red stone and a central park with resident capybaras, the city’s topsy turvy nature is definitely the city’s highlight.

In Spanish, Villarrica is referred to as, “La Ciudad Al Revés”, which means: the city in reverse, backwards, or upside down. 

Villarrica has a complicated and confusing history filled with stories of its residents doing things a little differently. You can find evidence across the city, which makes it for an interesting stop along the route.

What to do in Villarrica

Villarrica has a mix of attractions, some normal and others which help you observe why it is called La Ciudad al Reves.

• Eat at Patio Gua’i, where you can order the inside out burger: the meat patties replace the bun, and the bun becomes the meat.
• Visit the red stone facade of the Iglesia Nuestra Señora de la Asuncion to admire its incredible craftsmanship.
• Wander around the city to observe how the city’s design feels different to other colonial cities across Latin America (see my explanation why here). Stop by the Plaza de los Heroes to see the lion statues, and walk a few blocks to the Plaza Libertad.
• Pop into Museum Fermin Lopez where you’ll find historical objects relating to the wars, vintage photographs, furniture and coins.
• The Manuel Ortíz Guerrero Park is named after a famous local poet. Here you’ll find carvings and sculptures dedicated to him, and you’ll even find his grave. In the centre is a lake where you’ll find some resident capybaras.

Where to stay in Villarrica

I stayed at the central Hotel San Jose and I paid 80,000 PYG ($11.35 USD) for a private room with a double bed and a bathroom, A/C, hot water, wifi and TV. 

The wifi wasn´t great so I’d recommend checking out other accommodation options if that’s important to you.

How long to stay in Villarrica

While this town is incredibly interesting, I wouldn’t recommend it as a place to spend too much time. One full day here would be perfect, enough to walk around and see the attractions, visit the museum and then try an inside out burger.

How to get to Villarrica

Getting from the Route of the Picturesque Towns to Villarrica is simple, as the Ybytyruzú and Guaireña buses pass through each town (aside from Pirayú). 

You can message the company on +595 982 717202, or you can organise the bus from the Paraguarí bus terminal.

Stop 5. Cerro Trés Kandu

Cerro Trés Kandu holds the title of Paraguay’s highest peak, and at only 842m, it is a great hiking adventure to add to your travels in Paraguay. My friend and I rented tents and sleeping bags at the base camp, and hiked up the mountain in 2 hours. Along the way, the biodiversity of the Ybytyruzú mountain range came out to meet us: bugs, beetles, butterflies, birds and spiders.

What you need to know about hiking Cerro Trés Kandu 

I run through all the essential Cerro Trés Kandú trail information in another post, but here are the essentials:

• At only 842m altitude, Paraguay’s highest peak takes about 2-3 hours to summit. 
• The trail is well maintained and clearly marked. The hike is not incredibly strenuous, however it is classified as high difficulty as it is steep. 
• There are showers and toilets at the base of the Cerro. They have wifi available, a storage space for anything you don’t want to take on your hike, and a fridge with cold drinks to purchase.
• Because it’s on private land, you’ll need to message them in advance, especially if you’re planning to camp and rent their equipment.

How long to leave for the Cerro Trés Kandu hike

Travelling to Cerro Trés Kandú, doing the hike up and back and returning to Villarrica can be done in one day if you leave early in the morning.

However, I highly recommend camping and getting to take your time exploring the different paths. I would suggest two days for the adventure. 

How to get to Cerro Trés Kandu

From Villarrica, you can hitchhike or take a bus to General Eugenio Alejandrino Garay, where the road to the trailhead is. There are multiple buses heading towards San Juan Nepomuceno that pass through General Eugenio Alejandrino Garay.

Once you’re in the town, organise a lift to the Cerro Trés Kandu trailhead with a local.

For your next destination, head back to Villarrica or wait at Ñumi for a bus to Encarnación to pass through.

For additional information on the hike and transport, see my Cerro Trés Kandú post.

Stop 6. Encarnación and the Jesuit Missions

Encarnación is Paraguay´s gem of the south. This city is on the northern banks of the Paraná River and is well loved by locals as a summer destination for its beaches and busy Carnaval in February.

However, the major highlight for those visiting Encarnación actually lies in a nearby city. The Jesuit missions of La Santísima Trinidad de Paraná and Jesús de Tavarangue are Paraguay’s only inscribed UNESCO World Heritage Site.

What to do in Encarnación

Visit the La Santísima Trinidad de Paraná and Jesús de Tavarangue Jesuit Missions.

While you’re out there, organise to spend time with the local Indigenous community nearby. The Mby’a Guaraní community of Trinidad facilitate guided walks along natural trails, workshops where you can learn their craft, and perform songs in the local Guaraní choir.

Contact the community members who run this program on +595 985 575174 or +595 992 170747 for more information.

Where to stay in Encarnación

There are two hostels in Encarnación. The hostel I stayed at was La Casa de Pedro which was incredibly comfortable.

How long to stay in Encarnación

For me, Encarnación was the city with the least amount of activities. I would recommend exploring the city, enjoying the beach and visiting the ruins which would take 1-2 days.

How to get to Encarnación

There are multiple buses each day from Villarrica to Encarnación. Companies include La Yuteña and Guaireña and the bus takes about 4-5 hours.

If you swap the order of Encarnación and Ciudad del Este, you’ll find many buses on this route each day. This 6 hour bus can be taken through companies like El Tigre, Crucero del Sur and Itapua Poty.

Stop 7. Ciudad del Este and surrounds

For your final stop before continuing to Brazil or Argentina, welcome to Ciudad del Este.

Ciudad del Este is one of Paraguay’s newest cities, and due to its role as a commercial hub, the city has received a lot of immigration. For this reason, you can find lots of cultures in Ciudad del Este all interacting with each other as close neighbours, something locals are very proud of. You’ll likely see those of other ethnicities speaking Jopará (the local language of a Spanish and Guaraní mix).

What to do in Ciudad del Este

Ciudad del Este is known for its insane marketplace where you can buy anything for very cheap, especially electronics. Walking the streets close to the Friendship Bridge that links Paraguay and Brazil, you’ll find clothes, electronics, homewares, tools and even hear the zapping of tasers for sale.

Other activities in and around Ciudad del Este:

• Visit the Itaipú Dam built between Brazil and Paraguay. Itaipú was the largest dam in the world until China’s Three Gorges Dam took the title. Day tours are free.
  • On Fridays and Saturdays at 7pm there is a night time lightshow held at the dam. These are 
  • The Itaipú organisation also has the Wild Animal Investigation Centre just up the road, in which you can also find a Museum of Guaraní Land.
• Grab some friends and grab an Uber/Bolt out to the Saltos de Ñacunday. This full day adventure will allow you to experience beautiful waterfalls by yourselves, in contrast to Iguazú which is likely your next destination.
• If you want something closer to town, visit the Saltos de Monday at the city’s southern edge.
• Take a stroll around Lago de la Republica in the city’s centre.

Where to stay in Ciudad del Este

Ciudad del Este has some great hostel options. I loved Teko Arte Hostel for its large open outdoor area and pool, which was ideal during those hot summer afternoons.

How long to stay in Ciudad del Este

Depending on your activities, I would recommend between 2-3 days in Ciudad del Este. Heading to Ñacunday Falls is a full day activity, and the different tours at Itaipú Dam can take up a whole day too.

How to get to Ciudad del Este

From Encarnación to Ciudad del Este, you’ll find many buses taking this route every day. This 6 hour bus can be taken through companies like El Tigre, Crucero del Sur and Itapua Poty.

If you swap the order of the final two stops and head from Cerro Trés Kandú to Ciudad del Este, go back to Villarrica and take a bus from there. There are multiple bus companies to choose from, including La Yuteña, Ybytyruzú and Guaireña.

Where to next?

If you’re looking for the next destinations on your trip, check out my 10 day Northern Argentina Backpacking Itinerary, which begins from Iguazú Falls (right across the border from Ciudad del Este) to Salta.

You can also head in the opposite direction and get between Salta and Asuncion (look for the days Via TAC runs a direct bus).