Chamula is an autonomously run Indigenous town about 45 minutes away from San Cristobal. They have their own laws and own leaders that run the community, and their own police and jail to deal with any wrong doers. The reason why the town is so special and popular for cultural tourism is because of the community’s determination to stick by their traditions.
The history of their religion
When the Spanish invaded Latin America their goal was to convert the Mexicas (what many people know as the Aztecs), Mayans and other Indigenous groups to Christianity. Like many Indigenous religions (and Nordic and Greek too), these groups did not follow one god. Instead, there was one god for sun, another for rain, fertility, lightning, harvest, etc. There was also so much respect for the mother, the creator.
Because of their strong religion, the focus of Christianity was adapted to hold the saints in the way the groups held their gods. Jesus isn’t at the front and center – he’s there, but is one of many. In Chamula, for example, there are three churches, but because sheep are sacred to the community, the ex-temple of San Juan Bautista, a shepherd, is the location for their main ceremonies.
There was also a shift to focus more on the Virgin of Guadalupe (the Virgin Mary) as the Indigenous groups could associate her with the Aztec deity Tonantzin, the goddess of the earth and corn.
Chamula has retained more of their Indigenous beliefs than other towns across Mexico and are really strict in following it. People that want to convert to Christianity are required to leave the town. Many move to the outskirts of San Cristobal, other surrounding towns or out to Nuevo San Juan Chamula in the jungle.
Our experience
Hoping to get a deep introduction to this place, we joined a tour with a guide who has been visiting the town since he was 8 and his dad was leading the tours. He explained the ground rules on how to ensure a respectful visit: no photos of people’s faces, absolutely none of the children, and none inside the church.
Hence why there’s barely any photos for this place.
Our first stop, which served as an introduction to the town , was at a cemetery at the city’s edge. Each of the mounds were covered in pine needles and bore at least one cross to represent who was buried there (e.g. old, child, elder/leader).
Following that we walked to one of many houses across the town that held shrines for the different saints. The one we visited was tributed to Maria de la Rosa de Lima. This shrine was created with corn husks, pine needles and the room filled with smoke from pine sap as the prayers of a woman inside began. We sat around the edge of the room, drinking the pox that was offered to us, as the couple whose job it was to serve the shrine for a year explained how it worked. They sign up young, as the wait list is about 10 years, and when it’s their turn they share shifts with another couple to maintain the shrine, host prayers and be there for the community. To have this role is one of the highest honours.
The final stop was the Templo de San Juan Bautista in the town centre, the most fascinating cultural experience here in Mexico.
When we walked in I was immediately taken back in time. The church was dark, only lit from the small windows and the candles burning on the floor. There were no pews, and paintings of the saints lined the walls. Family groups were gathered in front of whichever saint they needed to pray to, and sang while swaying. The aroma was thick from the candles and pine needles and the music from the different groups across the church all came together to create a beautiful hum. It was so beautiful and for the first time in a church I was able to see spirituality. It felt like what a church might’ve looked like in the medieval times. It was such an incredible and overwhelming feeling.
Outside, young men set off fireworks as a notice that a celebration was going on, holding the heavy iron base in their hands. As locals left the church I was able to get a glance of their clothing; the male Elders in their white sheep coats and the women wearing the black wool skirts. The more wool on the clothes represents their status and/or wealth in the town.
After the church we ate, went for a wander around the town and then drove to the neighbouring Indigenous town of Zinacantan which is known for its large production of flowers and the textiles.
Why I would do a tour
While going to Chamula by colectivo by yourself is entirely possible, it can be difficult to understand what is going on without the in-depth explanations of the culture.
Our guide was able to speak Tzotzil and knew the locals well. This also made the experience more significant to me as I then found it easier to connect with the individuals the tour guide introduced us to, and made me feel comfortable that I was being respectful.
Our tour was through Alex and Raúl for $350 MXN. They have been doing these tours for over a decade and are respected by and respectful of the community.